BONNIEUX
BONNIEUX
Bonnieux is simply one of the outstanding villages of Provence: it is gorgeous whether seen from afar or within its winding streets, and has wonderful views over the Luberon; it has great restaurants ranging from simple to 3-star; and it has a very picturesque market on Friday mornings.
Bonnieux Architecture
The baroque and Renaissance detailing as you wander through the village are evidence of a monied past – in the 16th century the land belonged to the Popes and several bishops set up home in Bonnieux. As a result Bonnieux has a grandeur that sets it apart from its neighbours.
A remarkably preserved Roman bridge dating back to the 3rd century AD which you pass when you leave Bonnieux on the D149 as it reaches the D900. The Pont Julien is beautifully simple and elegant – the openings between the 3 arches seem to be there to create a sense of lightness, though in fact they were designed to let floodwater flow through without damaging the bridge.
Foret des Cedres
Take the road out of Bonnieux in the direction of Lourmarin and after 1 mile you turn right toward the Foret des Cedres. This is a walk or bike ride through the cedar forest along the top of the Luberon mountain. After a mile or so the cedars run out and the path continues all the way along the flat top of the Luberon with marvellous views to north and south.
Bonnieux Market
Market day is Friday in Bonnieux, which makes it an ideal day to visit. Bonnieux market starts around the new church at the bottom with textiles and clothing, and winds on past the roundabout with the colourful bags and hats, and then up a level to the square and all the flavours, smells and colours of Provence.
Our Bonnieux restaurant recommendations:
Cafe le Terrail - Bonnieux
Place Gambetta, Bonnieux, Bonnieux Tel: 04 90 75 93 73
Situated on the main square of Bonnieux, Le Terrail continues fels like a village hub. It continues to serve up good, honest, simple Provencal fare at a good price, like aioli, lamb chops, rabbit stew, salade nicoise. There is also an outside terrace with a great view, fantastic for sunsets. 3-course menu at 17 euros.
Budget: Low | Opening Hours: Open all year
L’Arome - Bonnieux
2 rue Lucien Blanc, Bonnieux, Bonnieux Tel: 04 90 75 88 62
A delightful restaurant in vaulted rooms that date back to the 14th century, or on the terrace on the street, where food is of a very good standard and local to the region. Pork slow-cooked for 8 hours, or duck Wellington stuffed with foie gras, both are as mouth-watering on the page as they are on the plate. 3-course menus at 31 and 43 euros.
Budget: Mid | Opening Hours: Closed all day Wednesday and Thursday lunch
L’heure Bleue by Yoha - Bonnieux
Place Gambetta, Bonnieux, Bonnieux Tel: 04 90 75 60 83
Friendly service and inventive menus that change every day according to what fresh and seasonal produce is found, with a choice of 3 starters, main courses and desserts. The menu is 25 euros for 3 courses. Inside you dine in a vaulted room and there is also a nice terrace outside on the main square of Bonnieux.
Budget: Low | Opening Hours: Closed Thursdays in July-August; Wednesday lunch and Thursday in May, June, September; and Wednesday-Thursday in October-April
La Bastide de Capelongue - Bonnieux
Les Claparedes, Chemin des Cabanes, Bonnieux, Bonnieux Tel: 04 90 75 89 78
Edouard Loubet is a big name in Provence cooking, and he has two Michelin stars to his name. His hotel and restaurant Bastide de Capelongue lives up to everything you might expect – the setting is wonderful, the food divine, the service impeccable, the prices as high as the steeple of Bonnieux’s church. The menu is complicated to the point where you may only understand what the main ingredient in a dish is, but put yourself in the chef’s hands and you won’t regret it. 5-course menu at 140 euros, 7-course menu at 190 euros.
Budget: High | Opening Hours: Closed Tuesday lunch and Wednesday
Le Fournil - Bonnieux
Place Carnot, Bonnieux, Bonnieux Tel: 04 90 75 83 62
Summer dinners on the lovely terrace of Le Fournil, with its plane trees and fountain, are a rite of passage in the Luberon. The cuisine is a little more sophisticated than a typical Provence-style restaurant, it is Mediterranean-inspired with twists of invention. For example the knuckle of veal is braised with star anis and served with polenta chips. Marinated sardines are layered with saffron-infused potatoes. The interior is basically built into the rock of Bonnieux, with funky decor. Lunch menu is 30 euros for 3 courses and dinner menu is 50 euros.
Budget: Mid | Opening Hours: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays
Things to know
For a towering view: walk up to the old church and cedar park at the very top of the village and gaze out over the plain that extends as far as Avignon.
For children there is a good playground at the foot of the village.
Things to note
While it may be possible to park in the centre of Bonnieux on the street (if you get lucky) there are carparks at the bottom of the village for visitors and this is the easiest option in summer.
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